Camellias are a spectacular shrub option for our maritime climate, all of the many kinds. They have adapted nicely to our area, thriving in many local gardens, including my own. Our mild winters are ideal, as is our acidic soil, but be sure the location drains well and is not heavy clay. When these plants are sited and cared for properly, they will impress you with their structure, foliage, and exquisite bloom. Many useful varieties of Camellias can be found, each with a distinct flower and habit.
Although Camellias are “shrubs”, their versatility allows many to mature into small trees over time, serving as tidy focal points for any garden. Plants can be trained as an espalier, a wonderful way to enjoy them along fences, walkways and even walls when given support. Picture this… a vine, but without the rapid unruly growth and extra pruning. Slow and steady is the way with all Camellias, making them great choices for containers, but be sure to use an acidic potting mix and not an ordinary pH-neutral potting soil. In pots they serve as a thriller, adding year-round interest with evergreen foliage and seasonal flowers while still allowing you to mix in other garden goodies with them to create a partial shade container garden that pops.
Two main species tend to be prevalent in our area, Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua, as well as some excellent hybrids, all worthy of consideration…
Japanese Camellias (C. japonica) are typically larger growing plants over time, blooming from late winter through spring (February to April). There are literally hundreds of varieties of these, with flower forms like single, semi-double, informal double, formal double, peony, and anemone in white and all shades of pink to red. Each bloom can range from 1.5-inches to almost 5-inches across in size. Plants you see at the garden center should have nice picture labels to help you choose the right one when their not in bloom, also denoting a specific height and spread. Depending on how you prune yours, most of these Camellias achieve large shrub to small tree status, with older ones I see around growing in the 8-foot to 12-foot tall range.
Sasanqua Camellia (C. sasanqua) offer us flower power fall through the winter, with most in our area blooming November through February. They are a great winter nectar source for hummingbirds and pollinators alike. Most blooms are either single or semi-double in form, about 2-inches to 3-inches across, and come in many shades of pink or red and white. Some cultivars are more upright like the Japanese Camellias above, while others will stay lower (under 4 feet) and spread/mound into bushier shrubs. Either way, Sasanquas add some serious winter color and are sure to make you smile on a grey winter day when in bloom.
The ‘Ice Angels Series’ brings us gardeners a few hardier options for cultivating in colder regions. One winter bloomer in this series is ‘Winter’s Snowman’, with lovely single white flowers and striking deep red new foliage each spring. Others bloom in early spring like ‘Spring’s Promise’ (single rose pink with golden stamens), and ‘April Remembered’ (semi-double lavender pink with creamy center). More hardy hybrids come with the ‘April Series’, which are cultivars of Camellia japonica like ‘April Rose’ (rose red formal double), April Tryst’ (fragrant red anemone form), ‘April Blush’ (semi-double pastel pink), and ‘April Kiss’ (formal double deep pink). Look for some of these this fall with others coming in spring. All are worthy additions to any woodland garden, especially in colder local microclimates.
Keep in mind the growth cycle of the Camellia and know when your plant(s) flowers. All bloom on old wood, spending the summer sporting new growth and then setting flower buds which will either open in the fall/winter (C. sasanqua) or the following spring (C. japonica). This dictates both the timing of pruning and the fertilization schedule. Camellias should be fed and mulched each March, and then fed again in June, with a quality organic Rhododendron (acidic) fertilizer. Pruning should be done in spring after flowering, as they can be easily thinned out, headed back here and there to control size, or even sheared like a hedge in some instances. Plants can also be limbed up from the base, creating more of a small tree look with time and allowing you to plant underneath them. I bring up feeding and pruning as these are two of the main reasons yours may not bloom. Pruning them in summer or fall simply cuts off your buds and means minimal flowering. Not feeding them (and not keeping them watered in our drier summer) may also abort the budding process and lead to lack of bloom.
I think we can all agree that we just never quite know what our winters will bring us, and more importantly when we may get extended cold spells. I am not talking about simple frosts, but more like the five-day spell that dips into the teens at night and not much above freezing during days. Sometimes flowers that are open may turn brown and drop, but tight buds should remain undamaged and keep the bloom going once the weather warms a bit. In gardens near the water or other sheltered areas, this may never be an issue, but plants in gardens higher up into the hills may be more of a concern. Camellia sasanqua flavors are hardy to Zone 7 and Camellia japonica varieties are rated to mostly Zone 8, but look for specific cultivars that are even hardier. If you are concerned about hardiness, as I often am, seek out the Ice Angels or April Series of Camellias as these are Zone 6 hardy and will exhibit much less bud freeze issues in our region.
Many Camellias are starting to flower now while others like ‘Yuletide’ and ‘Pink A Boo’ (both C. sasanqua) will offer color through the holiday season and into winter. Even more will burst into bloom come spring and blend nicely with our Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Visit your local Garden Center this time of year for a great selection and investigate your options with a Certified Professional Horticulturist. Camellias of all kinds are easy to grow in our area, so be sure to choose wisely and feed and prune them properly. Your reward will be stately specimens with maximum flower power in your garden for years to come.
