My favorite time of year is upon us, and Mother Nature is about to brighten all of our lives with the stunning colors of the fall season. The nights are getting longer but the temperatures are still warm and pleasant, and the rains (sorry to remind you!) are coming soon. I have been running garden centers for over 30 years now (which does mean that I am getting old, but I prefer to think of folks like me as “seasoned veterans” ) and every autumn I shout about the merits of planting, because the “fall is for planting” motto really does ring true. It was true 30 years ago, as it always was, and I am hoping to continue to spread the word to all local plant enthusiasts that this is an absolutely perfect time to get just about anything you can into the ground, and soon.
So why is fall so perfect for plants? In our climate autumn means warm soil and imminent moisture, which is excellent for getting things established in the garden. I wish I had a magical underground camera that showed gardeners how quickly roots develop in the fall season, which does nothing but get plants ahead of the game for the coming year. This is especially true when planting slopes, the back corners of the yard, under large trees, and any other locations where it is tough to get water to in the drier summer months. By planting now, your roots take off and give you a gardening head start throughout the landscape for next year.
Now bear with me for moment while I make sure that we are on the same page when it comes to the planting process… At your local garden center, you will see two main ways that plants are available; “container grown” and what is called “field grown.” Both are good, but here are a couple of techniques to keep in mind when making, and then planting, your selections.
Container grown plants are propagated into a simple pot and grown in that container while being cared for by the grower. Once “finished”, they are ready to be sent to a garden center for retail purchase by gardeners. These represent the vast majority of plants that you see in the garden center throughout the year and are usually lighter in weight with a nicely developed root system. The trick with these plants is to gently score and/or loosen up the outside of the roots (while being careful not to tear them to shreds) before placing them into the ground. The tip of a hand pruner works nicely, or often I grab my Hori Hori Knife. You need to let your new garden companion know that it is time to spread out and be free at last, no longer needing to grow in an unending circular cage
Field grown plants are just like they sound, specimens that are dug out of the ground intact with native soil, roots and all, and either potted into larger containers or wrapped in burlap for planting later. These are often a little larger for maybe a little less money, but also will be heavier to transport and plant. We do not score the roots as described above, but instead need to be gentle with these specimens. Dropping them or roughly throwing them into planting holes may crack the root ball, resulting in decline. Do not take the burlap off and then drop it! The trick is to place the entire root ball (with burlap still tied on) into your hole, then start backfilling the soil to stabilize the new specimen. After the hole is almost full, carefully cut the twine that is holding the burlap around the base of the trunk and unravel it on top of the root ball. The burlap can be folded over on the sides and buried, or I typically cut the excess off the top. Never leave the twine tied around trunk as you will girdle the tree, leading to inevitable death.
When putting either one of these types into your landscape, always assess your soil and drainage first. Start by digging a hole that is at least twice as wide and deep as the pot your new treasure is in, then fill the hole with copious amounts of water. How quickly does it drain? You might water away for a bit, then come back in an hour and see how far water has receded. At minimum it should drain at least an inch an hour, or you may have problems down the road. Coming out of dry summer weather, this will also help ensure the soil becomes hydrated and is not too dry to receive your new plant. The native soil you removed should be amended, ideally one third compost with two thirds native, mixing it as you backfill around the plant. Always use a good organic transplant fertilizer (like Sure Start from E.B. Stone Organics), as it will gently feed your new addition, getting it established faster with a superior, far-reaching root system. Try to sprinkle a bit of this into the bottom of the hole, then also some more on top in a circle around the root ball. Finally, a nice mulch cover with compost will help suppress weeds while keeping your new specimen moist, and also protecting its fresh roots over the coming winter months.
No matter what time of year you plant, the fundamentals for plant prosperity never change. Besides the gardening golden rule of “the right plant in the right place”, nothing is more important than your soil and what amendments you use to help them grow to their full potential. Visit your local garden center and speak with a Certified Professional Horticulturist about your specific needs, allowing them to help steer you towards success. Many garden centers bring in some fresh stock for the fall season and even new varieties for the next year are sometimes out and about in limited quantities. Autumn is a great time to catch fall clearance sales and save some money, as I have done in my own landscape. This is the time of year I often refer to plants as having “nursery disease”, which in fact is not a real problem or disease at all but rather a state in which plants look a little tired after a long summer of hanging out in containers. This is especially true with perennials and anything deciduous, so look past the brown tips to see the potential and know that it will be glorious once more the following spring. Follow these tips and give your new specimens a head start in the ground by taking advantage of fall planting season.
